Tvrdalj Castle: the poet's fortified house in Stari Grad
Tvrdalj Castle (Gradina Tvrdalj) stands at the western edge of Stari Grad, on the island of Hvar, right beside the bay. It was the summer residence of the Croatian poet Petar Hektorović (1487–1572), who fortified it as a shelter during the Ottoman raids. A well-preserved Renaissance complex, it is one of the most unusual and little-known monuments on the Dalmatian islands.
A fishpond at the heart of a fortress, a toilet with a lesson in humility and walls covered in Latin and Croatian sayings: Tvrdalj was the summer house of a 16th-century poet who wanted a refuge for friends, travellers and the poor.
The history of Tvrdalj Castle
In 1448 Hektor Hektorović was granted permission by the governor of Hvar to build on the land at Tvrdalj, at the far western edge of Stari Grad, right on the shore of the bay. The name Tvrdalj means fortress or castle, which suggests an earlier fortification on the site. The area had been occupied since ancient times: Tvrdalj was built near where the baths of a Roman country villa had once stood, and Croatian Wikipedia sees the project as an attempt to restore an ancient villa, using a description by the Roman writer Varro as a literary model.
After the death of his father, Marin, Petar Hektorović took over the building. He bought parts of the property from his relatives and made Tvrdalj into his summer palace to his own design, working with local masters. In the 1520s and 1530s the building work focused mostly on housing for travellers and the poor. An attack by the Turks in 1539 left much of Stari Grad burned and ransacked, and Hektorović fled to Italy, returning in 1541 to resume work and to fortify the complex.
The layout was simple: single-storey dwellings around a central courtyard with a large rectangular fishpond. Above the pond rose a tower with a dovecote, and behind lay a large walled garden. The main entrance was a Baroque portal from the sea. In 1571 Stari Grad was attacked again and Tvrdalj was set on fire by the Turks. A year later Hektorović died, and the damaged complex was divided among his relatives, with gradual repairs following the provisions of his will.
In 1834 the Venetian laws that had protected his building instructions lapsed, and Tvrdalj underwent major works: the south wall was removed, vaults were built around the pool, a second floor was added on either side of the tower and new two-storey houses went up. The bay in front was filled in during harbour improvements, which is why the square before the building did not exist until the 19th century. In 1901 the eastern wall was demolished and houses were built over the vault and cistern that still form part of the entrance.
Curiosities about Tvrdalj Castle
- The fishpond was created as a habitat for grey mullet, with a system to keep the supply of sea water fresh.
- Hektorović said his metaphysical construction began with the fish in the pond, symbolising Christ, and ended with the doves in the tower, symbolising the Holy Spirit.
- Above a small stone toilet in the atrium he carved the Latin words SI TE NOSTI CUR SUPERBIS: know what you are, then why are you proud?
- In the 16th century the sea reached right up to the entrance, so visitors could arrive by boat; the harbour was later filled in.
- Tvrdalj has numerous carved inscriptions in Latin, Croatian and Italian, and those in Croatian are considered among the oldest surviving.
- A 2023 book published by Stari Grad's museum is titled Nihil Occultum: Camera Obscura and Riddles at Hektorović's Tvrdalj Castle.
Tours near Tvrdalj Castle
Experiences in the area that you can book online with Viator:
Visiting Tvrdalj Castle
- The main attraction is the courtyard with its seawater fishpond, enclosed by a vaulted and arcaded terrace, with the tower and dovecote beside it.
- Read the inscriptions in the walls; the main one over the door says the poet built the house for himself and his friends, while others mention travellers and the poor.
- Look for the baroque portal that once opened onto the sea and for the walled garden where Hektorović grew herbs and medicinal plants.
- Stari Grad has other monuments from the same period, such as the Dominican monastery of 1482, so Tvrdalj works well in a stroll through the old town.
- Check the current opening hours and what parts of the complex can be entered before you go.
Opening hours, access and conditions can change. Check before you go.
Map: where Tvrdalj Castle is
Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors
Photos of Tvrdalj Castle
Questions
What is Tvrdalj Castle and where is it?
Tvrdalj is the fortified Renaissance summer house of the poet Petar Hektorović, at the western edge of Stari Grad on the island of Hvar, beside the bay.
Who was Petar Hektorović?
Hektorović (1487–1572) was a Croatian poet and local noble from Hvar who built Tvrdalj as his summer palace and as a refuge for neighbours during the Ottoman raids.
Why does Tvrdalj have a fishpond?
The sea-water pond in the courtyard was designed as a habitat for grey mullet, with a system to renew its water. Hektorović gave it a symbolic meaning, linking the fish to Christ.
What do the inscriptions at Tvrdalj say?
There are inscriptions in Latin, Croatian and Italian. One records that Hektorović built the house at his own expense for himself and his friends, and another dedicates the whole complex to the Creator of the World.
Was Tvrdalj ever attacked?
Yes. The Turks attacked Stari Grad in 1539 and again in 1571, when Tvrdalj was set on fire. Hektorović died the following year.
What else is there to see near Tvrdalj?
Within the island, Blaca is about 13 km away, and Stari Grad itself has the Dominican monastery built in 1482.
Also nearby
Blaca Hermitage
Brač · hidden hermitage with a monk's observatory
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Vela Spila
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Mirabella Fortress (Peovica)
Omiš · Romanesque tower above the Cetina gorge
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Temple of Jupiter, Split
Split · Roman temple turned baptistery inside Diocletian's Palace
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