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Nehaj Fortress, the square stone tower on its hill above the town of Senj
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Nehaj Fortress: the Uskoks' stone tower above Senj

Nehaj Fortress (Tvrđava Nehaj) is a compact, square stone fortress on the hill above the town of Senj on Croatia's Adriatic coast. Finished in 1558, it was the stronghold of the Uskoks, the frontier fighters who defended Senj against the Ottomans. Today it is a museum with a rooftop viewpoint over the coast and the islands.

The hill above Senj carries a defiant name. “Nehaj” comes from the Croatian ne hajati, “don't care”: a message from the Uskoks that no one would take this hill while they held it.

WhereOn the Nehaj hill above the town of Senj, Lika-Senj County, on the Croatian coast
TypeSquare 16th-century fortress with corner turrets, now a museum
Best forHistory lovers, panoramic views, families interested in the Uskoks
Getting thereIn the town of Senj, reached on foot or by a short drive from the centre

The history of Nehaj Fortress

Senj belonged to the Croatian Frankopan family until the 15th century. Whether a medieval castle ever stood on the hill is unknown. What is certain is that the hill was already used for worship: when the fortress was reconstructed in 1965, archaeologists found the remains of the church of St George, dating from the 11th or 12th century, which had burned during an Ottoman raid in 1520.

In 1539 Ivan Lenković became captain of Senj. He reported to the imperial court on the state of the region's defences and argued for a fortress on the hill. With funds from Emperor Ferdinand I, building began, and the fortress was finished in 1558. The Croatian sources say the work was supervised by Lenković together with the Senj captain Herbart VIII von Auersperg.

To make the new fortress effective, Lenković ordered the demolition of churches, monasteries and houses standing outside the walls of Senj, so that enemies could not camp in them. The stone was reused in the new walls. Among the buildings removed were the church and monastery of St Peter and the Templar monastery of St George, whose foundations were later uncovered on the ground floor.

The fortress is bound up with the story of the Uskoks, a community of refugees from the Ottoman advance. Their first main base was Klis. When Klis fell to the Ottomans in 1537, Senj became their chief stronghold, and Nehaj served as their base for defence and for raids against the Ottomans. A garrison of about 100 soldiers was enough to repel attackers and to support the town below if it came under siege.

Over the centuries the fortress lost its military purpose. Today the city museum of Senj runs it, and the building is a symbol of the town: a stylised Nehaj appears on Senj's coat of arms.

Curiosities about Nehaj Fortress

  • The name comes from the Croatian ne hajati, “not to care”. Locals were meant to read it as a promise that the hill would not fall to an enemy.
  • The fortress also goes by the names Kula Nehaj (Nehaj Tower) and Nehajgrad (Nehaj Town).
  • It is about 18 m high and 23 m wide, with walls 2 to 3.3 m thick and a top crowned by five small corner turrets.
  • The walls are pierced by around one hundred loopholes for light firearms and 11 large cannon openings.
  • Above the cistern in the courtyard are three coats of arms: those of Ivan Lenković (with the year of construction), of Archduke Ferdinand I, then lord of Senj, and of the Senj captain Herbart VIII von Auersperg.
  • German Wikipedia reports that the Tablet of Senj, a Glagolitic inscription from around 1100 and one of the oldest Croatian written records, was found during the excavations.

Tours near Nehaj Fortress

Experiences in the area that you can book online with Viator:

Visiting Nehaj Fortress

  • Inside, the museum collections include the Uskoks of Senj and the Senj coastal captaincy, along with exhibitions on the churches of Senj through history and on the city and noble coats of arms.
  • On the ground floor you can see the hearth, the rooms for soldiers and weapons, the cistern and the foundations of the small early Romanesque church of St George.
  • The top is an excellent viewpoint over the Croatian Littoral, the islands of Rab, Goli otok, Prvić, Cres and Krk, and the mountains Učka and Velebit.
  • An annual medieval festival is held in Senj, and the “Uskoks” ride up to the fortress on horseback. Check the current opening hours and event dates before you go.

Opening hours, access and conditions can change. Check before you go.

Map: where Nehaj Fortress is

Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors

Photos of Nehaj Fortress

View of the town of Senj with Nehaj Fortress on its hill
Photo: Arths-at, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Nehaj Fortress in Croatia, seen from outside the walls
Photo: Wistula, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Nehaj Fortress on its hill above Senj
Photo: Bvlahov, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Nehaj Fortress, another view of the square tower
Photo: Ziegler175, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Lenkovići, the district below the fortress hill
Photo: Silverije, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Questions

Where is Nehaj Fortress?

It stands on the Nehaj hill above the town of Senj, in Lika-Senj County on the Croatian Adriatic coast.

What does the name Nehaj mean?

It comes from the Croatian ne hajati, “not to care”. The Uskoks chose it to tell the people of Senj that they need not worry about an enemy taking the hill.

Who built Nehaj Fortress and when?

It was built under the Uskok captain and general Ivan Lenković and finished in 1558, mainly to resist the Ottomans.

Who were the Uskoks?

They were a community of frontier fighters and refugees from Ottoman-held lands. After Klis fell in 1537, Senj became their main stronghold.

What can you see inside Nehaj Fortress?

The museum shows weapons, costumes and household items of the Uskoks, along with exhibitions on Senj's captaincy, churches and coats of arms.

What is the view from Nehaj Fortress like?

From the top you can see the Croatian Littoral, the islands of Rab, Goli otok, Prvić, Cres and Krk, and the mountains Učka and Velebit.

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