Chapel of St Mary Formosa: the last Byzantine building in Pula
The Chapel of St Mary Formosa in Pula is the surviving part of a sixth-century church, built under the patronage of Maximianus, bishop of Ravenna. It is the only construction in Pula dating from the Byzantine period, and one of the most valuable early Christian monuments in Istria. A quiet stop for anyone seeking hidden gems in Pula, Croatia.
A grand basilica once stood here, said to rival the Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč. Today a single side chapel remains, while some of the basilica's marble may have travelled to Venice.
The history of the Chapel of St Mary Formosa
Maximianus, a native of Istria, became bishop of Ravenna in 546. He had served as a young deacon in Pula, and there he had a new basilica built, reportedly on the site of a former temple of Minerva. A chronicler of the Ravenna bishops names it as the first church Maximianus erected. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary as Santa Maria Formosa.
The church was 32 metres long and 19 metres wide, with three naves separated by two rows of ten columns with “basket” capitals. Its floor was covered with mosaics, mostly green and red, showing intertwined lilies and lotus flowers. Two chapels attached to the church served as mausoleums, one of them dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Built on low, marshy ground near the waterfront, the basilica came to be known as Santa Maria del Canneto, “St Mary of the reeds”. A Benedictine abbey was attached to it from the early Middle Ages.
The decline began with the Venetian conquest of Pula in 1243, when the church was damaged. The last abbot is recorded in 1258, after which the abbey passed to the Church of St Mark in Venice. Over the centuries the basilica was stripped of marble and columns. In 1549 Jacopo Sansovino was sent from Venice to select materials for St Mark's and the staircase of the Marciana Library, and an architect's account says he took columns and marbles in 1550 and 1551. Tradition holds that four carved alabaster columns of the ciborium in St Mark's Basilica came from here.
By the end of the 16th century the basilica was in ruins. A description from 1847 still mentions parts of the apse and the perimeter walls, besides the chapel that survives. Of the two cross-shaped chapels beside the sanctuary, the southern one remains, while the northern one is largely built into neighbouring houses. The chapel is protected as a cultural monument.
Curiosities about the Chapel of St Mary Formosa
- It is the only building in Pula that dates from the Byzantine period.
- Unlike similar churches in Ravenna, it was built of stone rather than brick.
- The basilica had two names: Santa Maria Formosa, and Santa Maria del Canneto, “of the reeds”, because of the marshy ground around it.
- Some art historians believe four alabaster columns of the ciborium in St Mark's Basilica in Venice came from this church.
- The only surviving mosaic fragment, showing Christ and a saint, is kept in the Archaeological Museum of Istria in Pula.
- The north wall of the old basilica can still be seen today as the boundary wall of a neighbouring garden.
Tours near Chapel of St Mary Formosa
Experiences in the area that you can book online with Viator:
Visiting the Chapel of St Mary Formosa
- The chapel has a cross-shaped plan and was built in the manner of Ravenna's churches; look for the remains of stucco friezes inside.
- The surviving mosaic fragments are in the Archaeological Museum of Istria in Pula, not in the chapel itself.
- Traces of the large basilica can be made out around the chapel, including the north wall that serves as a garden wall.
- Several other ancient monuments of Pula, such as the Arch of the Sergii, the Porta Gemina and the Temple of Augustus, are close by.
- The sources give no visiting arrangements, so check the current access and opening hours before you go.
Opening hours, access and conditions can change. Check before you go.
Map: where Chapel of St Mary Formosa is
Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors
Photos of Chapel of St Mary Formosa
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Questions
What is the Chapel of St Mary Formosa in Pula?
It is the only surviving part of a large sixth-century basilica, built under the patronage of Maximianus, bishop of Ravenna. It is the sole Byzantine-period construction in Pula.
Why is it also called Santa Maria del Canneto?
The basilica stood on low, marshy ground near the waterfront, so it came to be called St Mary of the reeds, del Canneto.
What happened to the rest of the basilica?
It was damaged when Venice conquered Pula in 1243, and its marble and columns were later taken to Venice. By the end of the 16th century it lay in ruins.
Where are the mosaics of the chapel?
The surviving fragments are kept in the Archaeological Museum of Istria in Pula.
Who was Maximianus?
He was a native of Istria who became bishop of Ravenna in 546. He had served as a young deacon in Pula and had the basilica built there.
What else can you see near the Chapel of St Mary Formosa?
The Arch of the Sergii, the Porta Gemina and the Temple of Augustus are all within a short distance.
Also nearby
Arch of the Sergii
Pula · Roman arch built by a woman's gift
250 m away
Temple of Augustus
Pula · Roman temple to Augustus on the old forum
300 m away
Porta Gemina
Pula · twin-arched Roman gate that survived burial
450 m away
Fort Punta Christo
Pula · vast Austro-Hungarian fort guarding the bay
4.5 km away